## Day 1 - Lands End to Wadebridge ![[e2e-1-1.jpeg]] At Lands End, ready to roll! This was a wonderful start to the trip. Left Lands End at 9 am, having obtained the necessary stamp on my 'record sheet'. There had been a sharp shower on the way from my B&B - but there was no more rain the whole day. A strong south-westerly was the perfect accompaniment for my north-east route, so I made good progress to Penzance, retracing my route of the previous evening but doing it in one hour compared to yesterday's 1 1/2. Beautiful sunny morning with glorious views of the bay and St Michael's Mount. Soon after Marazion I experienced my first act of kindness. I stopped to buy some lunch, paid and went back to my bike. The shopkeeper came rushing out with a package in her hand. 'What did I forget?', I asked. Nothing - it was a donut on the house. A long distance cyclist passed at great speed but didn't stop to compare notes. I saw no other signs of end-to-enders. The countryside became more rolling, with few distinctive features. A lot of up and down. I passed a 1900 Bible chapel with a notice outside, 'Every saint has a past, every sinner has a future. Quite a few motorists waved or even honked to greet me. I stopped for lunch and then continued to Truro (40 miles) where I turned north through some small lanes, following the Cycle Touring Club route. After lunch I began to feel really tired, but a bottle of Lucozade helped me find a second wind. I eventually reached St Columb Major, a slightly drab town which I had considered as a possible overnight venue if necessary. But it was not even 4 pm and too early to look for B&Bs, so I decided to continue to my prefered destination, Wadebridge. I took a back road to avoid the main A road, and climbed high over the moor, reaching close to my highest point of the day (c. 650 feet). Then a lovely long descent into Wadebridge where I rang a B&B place who had space. All in all a great day, though I feel quite tired. 69 miles, average speed 10.2 mph, total ascent 5,750 feet. No mechanical troubles. ## Day 2 - Wadebridge to Clovelly Late start today, as I knew I had a relatively short day ahead. Breakfast at 8.30, and then an interview with Radio Oxford before setting off at 9.25. This was a tough day, partly because I had chosen the scenic but very up-and-down coastal route. A series of steep downhills into little cove villages followed by a climb back up to the top. Over the whole day I averaged just over 100 feet ascent per mile travelled - a very high rate. I had to walk up a number of steep hills. But it was worth it. The sun shone most of the day, and the views out to sea from this Cornish north coast were fabulous. Mid morning I was in Tintagel, but I didn't fancy the long walk down to the remains of King Arthur's (reputedly) castle. Then a series of ups and downs to Boscastle, Crackington Haven, Millook, and eventually to Bude. I had had some mild mechanical trouble with my rear mech, so I sought out a bike shop in Bude and the man there quickly fixed it. I gave him the full works about the charities I was supporting, but he still charged me 3 quid! Money well spent though, as my bike was then back to its best. No other mechanical problems, no punctures so far, although I feared for my inner tubes on these steep downhills where I had to use brakes all the time, generating enormous heat on the wheel rims. At one point, as I crawled up a hill, I passed two ladies walking their dogs. 'Where are you going?' they asked cheerily as I inched past them. 'John O'Groats', I replied. 'Best of British to you,' they said. After Bude, I abandoned my idea of using back roads inland, as I had had enough hills for one day, and did the last 11 miles to Clovelly on the A39. I made good time on this stretch, bumping my average speed for the day up to 9.4 mph. The traffic was not as bad as I thought it would be. I crossed into Devon, having cycled 113 miles in Cornwall (11.75 hours riding) - a long county! Arrived safely at the home of my old friends James and Dron Hore-Ruthven, at about 5.20. ## Day 3 - Clovelly to Wheddon Cross This was a glorious, tough eventful day. The weather was again sunny, with temperatures reaching about 27C - I had to apply plenty of suncream. The wind was south-easterly which became a headwind at times. As I set out, with the blue sky crystal clear above me, I had no difficulty reflecting on a verse I had chosen for the day: "As high as the heavens are above the earth, so great is His love for us." I left the Hore-Ruthvens in Clovelly at 8.52 and cycled one hour to Westward Ho, making a little detour to see old friends Mike and Erica Henderson in their new home. When I left them, I made my first big navigational mistake. Hating the high roads and towns, I eschewed the option of taking the Tarka cycle track along the sea to Barnstaple (nice and flat!) and cut across country on a 'short cut'! Alas, the lanes were so small that at one point my prefered, straight route, carefully marked on my OS map, turned out to be a dirt track! I eventually made my way through to New Bridge and, faced with another steep climb over the top to Swimbridge I decided to cut my losses and go round via the southern outskirts of Barnstaple. I reckon this error cost me an hour or so, and 5 extra miles. Still, there were compensations such as a chat with a farmer. 'What's the best route to John O'Groats?' I asked when I was trying to reorientate myself in a maze of country lanes. 'Turn left,' he said. By the time I got near Swimbridge, ready for the big climb up to Exmoor, it was lunch time and I was hot and hungry but could not find a shop. I flagged down a motorist to ask the way to a shop and she, amazingly, offered to backtrack a mile to a shop and buy me a few things while I waited. She even refused payment. Fortified by this act of kindness, and by the great news received on my mobile from dear friend Laura Trevelyan that she had passed her driving test, I started up the long series of hills towards Simonsbath. A good deal of walking, but mostly riding, saw me reach the highest point I am likely to reach on this trip (with the possible exception of one) - 1570 ft (475m). I asked a passing motorist to take a photo of me there, but when I came to look at the photos it was just a wonderful close-up of the tarmac! I pressed on to Simonsbath, a tiny, shop-less place, where I filled up my waterbottle at the tea room. Five miles further east, as I descended quite fast into Exford, I had my first puncture (on the back wheel), hitting a small rock which I failed to see. Fortunately it seemed that no damage had been done to the rim or spokes, and I was able to insert a new inner tube and proceed. Having lost a good bit of time earlier in the day, I decided not to press on to my initial goal of Elworthy or Bishops Lydeard, and found a B&B at Wheddon Cross. It will make for a longer day tomorrow (estimated 75 miles), but that should not be too bad as a lot of it will be relatively flat. (Today I ascended 4690 feet - average 88 ft/mile, bringing my total ascent to date to over 15,000 feet.) ## Day 4 - Wheddon Cross to Bristol Today was tougher than I had expected. Partly because a couple of hills were higher than I had anticipated and partly because of a two-hour downpour in the middle of the day. Still, given the weather forecast, I was lucky to escape with just those two, soaking, hours - plus some lighter showers later on. I was woken by thunder and lightening and a downpour which happily ended before I left Wheddon Cross at 8.28. There was some rain on the way east across Exmoor but it was then dry for the descent to Elworthy and the picturesque road going south parallel with the Quantocks to the east. Having learnt my lesson yesterday, I attempted no more 'shortcuts', and used the CTC route up from Bishops Lydeard over the Quantocks. It was as I struggled up this long hill that the serious rain began, continuing all the way through Bridgewater and a fair way north. It was a good chance to try my Goretex waterproofs and spats (shoe covers), which all did their job well. After Bridgewater there was some flat, featureless countryside, but it was hard to make fast progress because of the rain and bulky clothing. It eventually stopped around 1.25 and I was able to shed all the waterproofs. So much easier to cycle without them. Eventually reached Cheddar and started up the famous Gorge - it seemed to take forever though in fact it was about 45 minutes to the top of the Mendip Hills above the Gorge - over 800ft high. Then another steep run down the other side and along a bit to Chew Magna where I asked an estate agent the best route to Bristol. Over the Dundry hill seemed most straightforward, "not very high," she said. She was obviously not a cyclist! That final hill, reaching about 700 ft, almost finished me off, but eventually I was freewheeling down into Bristol, and made it to my friend Phoebe's place at 6pm. Total miles: 73. ## Day 5 - Bristol to Presteigne ![[e2e-5-4.jpeg]] *The cousins tired but happy before parting* I had always been looking forward to today, because of my cousin Simon joining me for most of the day, plus seeing my wife Elisabeth in the evening, but the day was made more enjoyable by the lack of rain, in spite of an iffy forecast. I left Bristol about 8.20 and made my way by back roads to the Severn Bridge. The final stages were well signposted for cyclists, taking you onto the special cycle track on the bridge. It was windy on the bridge, and looking back towards Bristol I saw the city apparently engulfed in a rain storm and was glad I had got out just in time. Just after the bridge I was passed by a cyclist who said he was going to Monmouth and back, training for a 24 hour ride in the summer. We saw various other cycling enthusiasts during the day. I met up with my cousin Simon near Chepstow. His eldest daughter Rowena had kindly driven him over from Old Windsor and she kicked her heels for some hours, meeting us later 47 miles north. We cycled up the Wye valley from Chepstow to Monmouth, a most picturesque route with relatively little traffic, and also fairly flat. We passed the famous Tintern Abbey, which I find breathtaking (see photo opposite). In Monmouth we passed down the main street, through the city gate, and then headed north on B roads for the rest of the day. Quite up and down, always beautiful. It was good to have Simon's company, though one can't talk all that much when riding. Our route took us through Pontrilas and then up the 'Golden Valley' towards Hay on Wye. A few miles before Wye we turned right over the large hill at Dorstone, to Bredwardine and then to one of the few bridges over the Wye between Hay and Hereford. At this point, 4.15, we linked up with Rowena and they headed back to Old Windsor for an evening lecture by Germaine Greer! (Goodness knows how Simon had the stamina for that after a long day's cycling.) I pressed on alone, using country lanes going north towards Presteigne. After a short time I suddenly began to feel very tired and light-headed, and I realised that I had not been eating enough during the day (in spite of Simon's delicious sandwiches). So I stuffed myself with all I could find left in my bag, and, feeling restored, proceeded north, arriving at our dear old friends Brian and Juliet Boobbyer just a few minutes before Elisabeth arrived from Oxford by car for the night. Day's mileage: 75. Average speed 10 mph. Total ascent: 4780 f t **Appendix: report from Simon Milan:** Edward asked me a couple of months ago whether I'd like to join him for a day on his journey. I declined, alleging that both my bike and I were too ancient and clapped out for such an effort - though in the past I had done various London to Oxford/Cambridge/Brighton sponsored rides. Anyway, the day before Edward and Elizabeth were due to come to lunch a few weeks ago, I made the mistake of going into our local Halfords to buy something for our car . The shop was covered in posters saying "20% Off Everything" so I succumbed to temptation and bought a new bike! Having done that, how could I refuse Edward? So after a couple of training rides, I duly arrived at Chepstow and Edward has related the bones of the rest. Going downhill was great, going uphill much less so. Edward reckoned I'd do better than him uphill as I had lower gearing and wasn't carrying all his weight, but his legs are in better shape than mine! Discretion was the better part of valour, however, and if in doubt we walked up the steep bits. Thank you, Edward for a great day. Don't forget, somewhere up ahead there is flat country..... PS Speaking of bones, as I write this the day after, I am VERY glad I'm sitting on a well-padded chair! ## Day 6 - Presteigne to Utkinton (nr Chester) ![[e2e-6-2.jpeg]] This was the easiest day so far. Although it was 81 miles, total ascent was 'only' 3690 ft, at a manageable average of 45.5 ft per mile. We were also blessed with a following wind for large parts of the journey. I say 'we' because I had company again today. Margaret Cosens, an old Australian friend who was chief bridesmaid at our wedding, was driven down early from Cheshire by her husband Dick to join me for the leg up to Tirley Garth, the MRA (now renamed Initiatives of Change) centre where Elisabeth and I lived for the first 3 years of our married life. It was hard to say goodbye to Elisabeth, knowing that I would not see her again until my return to Oxford, but Margaret and I left Presteigne just after 8.30. I had decided, with the help of Juliet Boobbyer who knows the area well, to keep east of the Long Mynd, a stretch of high hills north of Presteigne. This meant using the A49 but I had had enough of hills for the moment! We started out on minor roads through Leintwardine towards Craven Arms, mercifully not very hilly. I passed a lady on a bicycle, wearing a fine hat. "Are you going to John O'Groats?", I asked. "No," she replied, "I'm going to church actually." We made good time along this stretch and even better time along the A49, with a good following wind. But Margaret's bike was starting to give trouble: first problems with her front mech - my minor adjustments seemed to help but then make matters worse (!) and then a more serious difficulty with the crank on her left pedal which was working loose. It transpired that it was not threaded counter-clockwise, as the left pedal should be, so she was constantly working it loose as she pedalled. (Raleigh need a talking to!) We found a friendly man who lent us a spanner to tighten it, and we had to stop several times during the remainder of the journey to tighten the crank up. However we reached Shrewsbury alright and looked for a takeaway where we could get a warm pasty, but ended up buying a cheese and ham toastie from a snooty French cafe. Then we pressed on north, on B roads to Wem, then using country lanes to avoid Whitchurch, crossing the Shropshire Union canal and then making for Malpas and Tattenhall. By the time we reached Huxley, about 5 miles from our destination, Margaret had had enough. She had done magnificently, not having trained for a 77 mile ride like she had just done, and riding a bike that was giving constant difficulties. So she rang Dick who came to fetch her while I pounded on the final 4 miles to Tirley Garth. All in all a very good day, and I am pleased that I am feeling much less tired than I have done the past two days - and that my knees are causing no problems. **Margaret Cosens' personal account** It's amazing what an overnight stay with old friends can lead to! Two weekends ago when in Oxford to see Elisabeth and other friends, Edward told some of us of his Lands End to John O'Groats undertaking and showed us his route. The idea of joining him for a day - for solidarity with the worthwhile cause, plus simply for the fun of it - seemed too good a chance to miss. So last Sunday Dick and I arrived at Presteigne in time for a very brief chat with Brian, Juliet and Elisabeth; then Edward and I were off. I wish I could express, and (better) pass on to you, the pleasure of riding mile after mile through those English country lanes. The birdsong, the bluebells, hawthorn, clematis…picturesque cottages, bridges over streams, and the English coat of green as a background to all. (Not racing green, I hasten to add. I've no doubt my presence steadied Edward's pace considerably!). However, in spite of Edward's and others' help, my bike's ever-loosening pedal shaft and ever-tightening gears finally gave me a good excuse to be driven the last five miles home! A wonderful day - I'd recommend the experience to anyone! Thanks for the opportunity, Edward. The cost: one day's worth of sore backside and tingling hands! ## Day 7 - Utkinton to Clitheroe ![[e-2-7-2.jpeg]] Leaving Tirley Garth Today's route took me through the most built-up area I shall experience on this entire ride. I was again very fortunate with the weather - some light rain for a while but nothing heavy. And a brisk southerly wind, perfect for driving me north. It was a joy to see a number of old friends at Tirley Garth over breakfast and they gave me a warm send off at 9am. It was overcast and drizzly. My route took me soon onto the CTC route, which I stayed with for the rest of the day: Acton Bridge - Lymm - Leigh - around Bolton - Blackburn - Clitheroe. The early part was reasonably rural. Just north of the M56 I stopped in the sheltered old gatehouse of a church to spread some sandwiches. A black beetle looked quite interested in the ham, but when I offered him some breadcrumbs he turned away in disgust. As I re-emerged onto the road, two long-distance cyclists rode up and we compared notes. They had left Lands End on the same day as I had, and were aiming for John O'Groats on the same day as me! Their route had been rather different from mine but we had been in Monmouth and Shrewsbury on the same days. They were much less heavily laden than I, and when we parted they pounded on - though we passed eachother a couple of times before they finally vanished into the distance. At Lymm I passed a bike shop and bought a new inner tube, as the one which burst in Devon was full of patches and deserving of being thrown out. Much of the route was now through small towns and housing estates in this broad band of inhabitance between Manchester and Liverpool. But there were also some rural areas, and at one such point I passed over a toll bridge (bikes were free, which saved me the princely sum of 12p) over the Manchester Ship Canal. When I reached Leigh I was feeling rather tired and hungry (I think the weather was depressing me, because the riding was easy). I spied a pie shop and entered. "I need a pie to carry me on to John O'Groats!" I told the proprietor. "Oh," he said, "who are you doing that for?" "For African Aids orphans," I told him. I asked what pie he recommended and accepted his suggestion of a juicy steak pie. "How much do I owe you?" I asked. "Nothing," he said, "that's my contribution. And would you like a drink?" I was touched by this act of generosity and support from a complete stranger. After Leigh the road started to climb steadily, continuing after skirting Bolton, high up into the hills. I was surprised to find myself entering the wildest country I had yet experienced on this journey, and reaching 360m (1200ft). Wonderful moor land. Then a descent into Blackburn where I had a bit of difficulty finding the best (most hill-less) route out to the north east. On the A59 I missed a turning north-east, and so found myself arriving in Clitheroe, a little bit out of my planned route, but no disaster. On the outskirts of the town I passed a farmhouse B&B and decided to call it a day, as I was not sure of finding B&Bs on the lonelier roads further north. I had done 66 miles, leaving slightly less for tomorrow. Total ascent for the day only 3240 ft (average 49ft/mile). ## Day 8 - Clitheroe to Patterdale This was the most beautiful day so far for me, as I love the wild north of England. It was also tougher than I had expected. I knew about the two 1500 ft passes I would have to negotiate, but did not anticipate how hilly it would be between Kirkby Lonsdale and Kendall. I left Clitheroe just before 9, fortified by a huge and delicious Indian curry last night, and a good night's sleep. I decided not to take the shortest road to Slaidburn, mainly because I could save at least 400 ft of climbing by going around via Bashall Eaves (famous for an unsolved murder in the 1930s), Whitewell and Dunsop. It was a lovely morning, with sunny spells, and the Ribble Valley was idyllic. They say that Dunsop is the centre point village of the British Isles. I stopped to chat with a garage attendant reading a newspaper. "This is the most beautiful place between Lands End and John O'Groats," I said. "Oh, it's alright," he said, barely looking up. But it was really beautiful, farming land and increasingly wild moorland as I climbed above Slaidburn to over 1500 feet. In the 10 miles between Slaidburn and Bentham only about a dozen vehicles passed me, plus a cyclist who turned out to be going from Edinburgh to the Wirral. He said he had really struggled yesterday, into a heavy headwind. I realised again how lucky I have been to have southerly, following winds, the whole way from Lands End. The run down from the top into Bentham was very quick, and I then continued to Kirky Lonsdale where I stopped at a supermarket to stock up. I asked the car park attendant if he would keep an eye on my bike, which he happily agreed to do, and when I came out he (having seen my flag) volunteered that he had been an AIDS counsellor in South Africa for many years. After Kirkby the road was hillier than expected. I passed underneath the M6 and eventually reached Kendal. Then on minor roads and a cycle track along the A591 towards Windermere, but then cutting up to the right and over the hill to Troutbeck for the final push over the Kirkstone Pass. It started raining and my legs were tired. I lived off my altimeter, giving a silent whoop every time it showed a further 5 metre altitude gain. I had to walk several times, but finally reached the Inn at the top, just about the highest point I shall reach on this ride. Then a fast, wet run down the Ullswater side to my B&B just before Patterdale, arriving soon after 5.30. Altogether a great day: 68 miles, average 9.7 mph, total ascent 6450 ft. ## Day 9 - Patterdale to Dumfries The overnight rain had cleared by the time I woke up, and I left my B&B about 8.45 with the sun trying to break through the Lakeland clouds. Ullswater was looking beautiful as I skirted the lake and then climbed north over another high hill (1180 ft, my highest point of the day). I then worked my way through some minor roads, past Carrock Fell, and then leaving the Lakes area and heading on small roads towards Carlisle - gently dropping all the time to near sea level. Looking back at the hills, rain seemed to be descending, but it stayed dry for me for the moment. Entering Carlisle I stopped for a pie, not free this time! Carlisle was the worst signposted city I have been in - not an indication anywhere on my way in, and I had to ask a couple of times to make sure I didn't go round in circles. Eventually I started heading north on the A7 towards Longtown, to avoid the very busy A74. Then west to Gretna where I entered Scotland, having travelled 581 miles from Lands End. After Gretna I used the B724, through Annan and on west. I was heading towards an extremely black sky. For quite a while it stayed dry, but then the heavens opened. I donned my full set of Goretex waterproofs and slogged on. It was very windy, as it had been most of the day - a southerly which was now a side wind for me as I headed west. This belt of lowland countryside, not far from the sea, was rather featureless, but it had the redeeming virtue of being flat! Eventually, at 5pm, I reached Dumfries from the south, fairly wet and tired, to be greeted warmly by my overnight hostess, old friend Isobel Docherty, who has promised me a home-cooked three course meal! Today's mileage: 72. Average speed: 10.9 mph. Total ascent: 3280 ft (1000 m). ## Day 10 - Dumfries to near Ardrossan Today could be described, by a seriously middle aged rider like me, as 'battling'. The terrain was not tough, but heavy rain and wind through much of the day conspired to make it quite a slog. Isobel gave me a delicious three course meal last night, and I left Dumfries just before 8.30. It was windy but no rain yet. About 6 miles north, on the A74, the rain came. I donned my waterproofs and kept them on for the next four hours. At first the showers were short, but later in the morning there was torrential, sustained rain and wind. I had decided to stick on the main road, the A74, rather than using minor roads where possible. Traffic was not too bad, the gradient slight, and it seemed the best plan to conserve energy, as I have been feeling quite tired the last couple of days. The A74 climbs gently for many miles, often alongside the river Nith. After 26 miles I reached Sanquhar, desparate for a hot pie, but none to be found. So I had to settle for a photo of the oldest post office in the world (left). It was after Sanquhar that the heavens opened, and by the time I got to New Cumnock I was thoroughly soaked. New Cumnock is a depressing small town, with shops drab and/or boarded up. But I was cheered up by a group of school boys who waved greetings at me (I don't think it was abuse!) After Cumnock and Mauchline (still no hot pie!) I turned onto minor roads - the B743 and B730. The sun came out, and it felt good to be alive, though the south-westerly wind was often almost a head wind as I battled west. At the tiny village of Tarbolton I came upon a bike shop and ventured inside to see if they would loan me a floor pump to up the pressures on my tyres - which they would, but it did not have the right valve fitting (some bike shop!). I passed Dundonald Castle, and the rain returned, though not too heavy. In Irvine centre I stopped at a large fish and chip shop for an early supper. The attendant took my 20 pound note to the till, but then came back with it, saying the manager wanted me to have the supper on him. He was a very friendly man, who warned me that there was a risk of gales tomorrow which might lead to the cancellation of the Arran ferry. (Forecast this evening suggests it won't be that bad.) I then struggled into winds along the Kilwinning bypass (dual carriageway) before winding up a few country lanes to my B&B above Ardrossan. 75 miles. Ave speed 10.1 mph. Total ascent: 3330 ft. Medical bulletin: right hand sore, with numbness in two smallest fingers (predicted); bottom sore but surviving (a little cream used for the first time this evening); knees and legs - tired but OK; brain - still functioning, just.. ## Day 11 - near Ardrossan to Kilmelford ![[e2e-11-1.jpeg]] Waiting to board the Arran ferry Last night's B&B was the most splendiferous yet. A dairy farm, with part of the premises converted to high-class accommodation by the farmer's 34 year old wife who (along with rearing 5 children under 8) uses her degree in catering to provide first-class hospitality. You should have seen the size and quality of the breakfast I was served this morning! I cycled down the 5 miles to the Ardrossan ferry, and bought a ticket for the 1 hour crossing to Brodick and the half hour crossing off the other side of the island to Claonaig - all for the princely sum of 7.80. A couple from Penrith, complete with two classy bikes, were waiting for the same ferry, starting off a tour of the islands. They gave me a 5 pound contribution for my charities. It was lovely and sunny, with the mountains of Arran in the distance, but the weather changed during the crossing and for the first hour on the island it rained, though not hard. A charming 15 mile ride round the north of the island to Lochranza took me first along the sea shore, with the waves lapping the coastline just feet from the road - and then over a 675 feet road pass with magnificent views south to the large mountains of the north part of the island. In Lochranza I had a few minutes before the 1.15 ferry, and had a Scottish Pie in the cafe by the jetty. The ferry was one of these small ones that holds about a dozen cars. It lowers its car ramp onto the stone ramp on land, and then holds itself in position while vehicles disembark and board. On reaching Claonaig it was particularly windy and the waves were splashing over the point where the car ramp meets the stone ramp - and it felt quite brave to steer my bike down into this boiling cauldron of sea and up the other side. A rather fancy Jaguar sports car, waiting to board, decided not to run this obstacle course. It was nearly 2pm when I reached Claonaig, and I had only done 20 miles so far, with over 45 still left. The heavens opened and I set off in full waterproof gear - first over the hills to the main road, and then north to Tarbert where the heavy rain relented. A couple crossing the road passed me and said, in a very poncy English accent, "I hope you don't get blown over." The 14 mile run from Tarbert to Lochgilpead was fairly flat, and with a following wind I was able to make good time, though it continued to rain. In Lochgilpead I popped into the bike shop where Kevin kindly used his floor pump to bring my tyre pressures up from 80 to 100 psi (it is hard to get that kind of pressure with a hand pump). I then visited the fish and chip shop and asked what they recommended. The lady pointed at a haggis, but I chickened out of that challenge and ordered sausage and chips which, as the sun had now come out, I ate sitting on a bench looking out to sea. Then back on the road for the final 22 miles to Kilmelford, first very flat, and then a couple of hills. But virtually no rain. The evening sun was trying to break through when I reached Loch Melfort, and eventually into Kilmelford just before 7. I took a wrong turning, looking for the B&B, and stopped a car to ask for directions. The occupants couldn't help me, but the driver (having presumably seen my flag) said to his wife, "I think we'd better give a donation to his charity!" A ten pound note was produced, my second donation of the day. When I finally found my B&B place there was no one at home, but there was a note by the door explaining that the proprietor had had to go to town - could I please come in and find my room and make myself at home! A novel experience. All in all an enjoyable day, in the wonderful Scottish countryside which I love so much and which not even the bad weather can spoil. Total: 68 miles, average speed 10.7 mph. Total mileage so far: 752. Total ascent today: 3520 feet. Interesting statistic: my average heart rate on the ride today was 110, higher than expected, due to my keeping up a high pace in the afternoon in order to make my B&B in good time. ## Day 12 - Kilmelford to Fort William My host Tom McKay eventually showed up last night, and this morning he gave me the statutory hearty cooked breakfast. When I took out my wallet to pay the £9 I still owed (having sent a £10 deposit in advance), he said, "No, put that towards your charities." I was very touched. It was tipping it down, so I dawdled before leaving, hoping the rain would relent. But it clearly wasn't going to, so just before 9 I set off fully covered in all my waterproofs from head to toe. I covered the 16 miles to Oban, relatively flat but with two hills, and bought some rolls and a doughnut from the baker there. There was little traffic on this stretch, but after Oban it increased markedly as far as Connel but became quieter after the single lane bridge there. The rain was continuous, so I stopped at a caravan park where there was a little shop and some shelter under which to prepare my sandwiches. A few miles further on, after Barcaldine, I had read (in another cyclist's diary) that there was an old bridge which one could walk across, thus saving 6 miles. This bridge turned out to have been upgraded into a full road bridge since that cyclist's visit! I continued north, mostly alongside various lochs, but was unable to enjoy them properly because of the weather. I was riding with my hood over my head, giving decent protection from the rain, but making it hard to look around while one cycled. Eventually, near Ballachulish, I met the A82 from Glasgow and crossed another bridge. Immediately afterwards there was a spectacular whole field full of bluebells, but I was unable to photograph it because the rain was more or less horizontal at this point, being driven by heavy winds off the loch. The traffic increased ten fold from here on, with masses of impatient (presumably city-based) drivers all trying to break the world land speed record on a tiny road along Loch Linhe. With an hour still to go to Fort William, I stopped in an old shed for my doughnut, and at this point the rain stopped and the sun started to make its first appearance of the day. I was able to enjoy (apart from the traffic) the final 10 miles along the loch to my B&B, and arrived almost dried out. My hostess turned out to be a rather grumpy lady, but the place was OK. After a shower I walked along the loch side into town for a meal. It was a pleasant, sunny evening. Today: 59 miles, average speed 10.6. Ascent: 2260 ft at average of 38.3 ft/mile. Interesting to note that this is the lowest daily ascent and lowest ft/mile figure of the whole ride so far. ## Day 13 - Fort William to Dingwall My grumpy hostess managed to say good morning to me, and even warmed up slightly during breakfast. But I can't say I was sorry to leave that particular B&B place. Left about 8.30 with the sun breaking through the clouds and made good time on the first leg of the trip - 33 miles to Fort Augustus where I was due to meet a retired lady, Ann Goldsmith, for lunch at 12. Some splendid views of the Ben Nevis range. Slowly ascending road to Spean Bridge, then some climbing over to Loch Lochy which was the highlight of the day, with the weather at its best. A tranquil lake with wonderful rugged mountains on the far side. I cycled for miles along the loch shore. I visited one of the locks at the end of Loch Locky, where the boats using the Caledonian Canal pass. Then onward along Loch Oich, and finally into Fort Augustus bang on 12. Ann treated me to a delicious lunch, and an hour later I was on my way for the 20 mile leg along Loch Ness to Drumnadrochit. The weather was cloudy but rain-free along this stretch of road which goes up and down but usually well above Loch Ness. Rather a monotonous stretch, because trees conceal the view of the loch for most of the way. After Drumnadrochit I left Loch Ness and tackled the anticipated steep climb up to over 850 ft, on the Beauly road (A833). This 15% gradient lasting almost a mile had me walking the whole way - probably the longest too-steep-to-ride section I have encountered on this whole journey. Simultaneously there was a heavy shower which lasted for about 15 minutes. I gambled that it would pass, and did not put on my Goretex waterproofs. Thereafter it was mainly dry, just the odd spots of rain and short showers. From the top here it was a mainly gentle run down to the rather unremarkable flat stretch of road between Beauly and Muir of Ord, before the countryside became prettier again for the last few miles into Dingwall. I found a B&B place just after 6. So, just two days left to John O'Groats and I am getting quite excited - as well as glad that this journey is nearing its end. Although I am feeling OK physically, it is quite a push to do a full day's riding every day without any break. I am looking forward to tomorrow's 80 miles up through the central Highlands to Bettyhill. Today: 77 miles, ave speed 10.3 mph. ## Day 14 - Dingwall to Bettyhill This was an exciting day. It was my longest, both in distance (83 miles) and riding time (8 hrs and 40 mins). It also contained one of my lowest moments of the trip, as well as the highlight. As I readied for departure it was raining hard, so I donned full waterproof regalia and set off at 8.35. The first 5 miles were on busy roads, but then at Evanton I could switch onto minor roads. The rain stopped at that point and I changed into my normal riding gear. Just before Alness I took the B9176, a scenic but desolate road over the top. The rain held off but it was quite cold and foolishly I didn't bother to put on more clothing. When the rain set in again just before the big descent by Struie Hill, I got very cold indeed, and felt quite miserable. At Bonar Bridge I put all my waterproofs on again - quite a palava each time - bought some rolls, and set off towards Lairg. It was raining incessantly, and the road was uphill often into the wind. By the time I got to Lairg I was ready for a hot pie, which I duly found. At this point, around 1.30, I had done only 37 miles, mainly because of the adverse weather conditions. But then the rain stopped. I took a chance, and removed my waterproofs, getting back into the streamlined cycling gear which makes riding so much easier. I was very fortunate - it did not rain heavily again until 6.30. From Lairg I set off on the lonely Altnaharra road (the A836, perhaps the least populated A road in Britain? - single track with passing places). 21 miles of wilderness to Altnaharra, a tiny village in the middle of nowhere. It was quite the most beautiful scenery I had yet encountered, and the sun even came out at times. There is a lot of forest on this stretch, great swathes of moorland, and little else. I love this wild country. The riding was easy, as I had anticipated - a gentle ascent to 280 metres (910 ft) - and then a slow descent to Altnaharra which lies at the end of Loch Naver. Here I branched off onto an even lonelier road, the B873 which runs along the shore of the Loch for about 8 miles before turning north. This lochside stretch was into the teeth of a head wind and progress was slow. But it did not matter because the scenery was so beautiful. From the end of the loch it was slowly downhill all the way to Bettyhill, following the course of the river Naver. Lots of sheep with their lambs. Some farmhouses. And lots of rabbits. I think I terrorised a significant proportion of the rabbit population of the area, coming up upon them unawares in my yellow jacket. I even had one or two races with baby rabbits for stretches of the road, but they always won. Nature lovers everywhere will be happy to know that I did not hit a single one. Altnaharra to Bettyhill is 24 miles, and I finally entered this tiny village on Scotland's north coast just before 7, weary but grateful for a wonderful afternoon. So, tomorrow, the last 50 miles to John O'Groats - and crossing the magic 1,000 mile mark! ## Day 15 - Bettyhill to John O'Groats ![[e2e-15-1.jpeg]] So, I finally made it! But much to my surprise this turned out to be the toughest cycling of the entire trip - because of the wind. It was as though the fabled 'End To End' was not going to surrender to me without a fight - perhaps feeling that I had had it too easy so far (which I had!) I left Bettyhill before 9, on a beautiful sunny morning. I had anticipated that headwinds might be an issue, as I was going to cycle due east all day. So I had allowed plenty of time before my 6pm ferry to Orkney. But I was not prepared for the ferociousness of the east-south-easterly, which served as a full headwind for large stretches, nor for the exposed nature of the terrain which gave little shelter. The first 17 miles were, as expected, very up and down - reminiscent of the north Cornish coast - you go up a long hill and then down to a cove, and then up again, repeat, repeat. My average ascent rate for that first 17 miles was 90 ft/mile. After Reay, the land flattens. I took the national cycle track recommended route on minor roads to Thurso. This was very exposed and progress was slow. I managed only 6mph for long stretches, and even started to wonder whether I would get to John O'Groats in time for my ferry. Thurso gave some respite from the wind, but after the town it got even worse. I battled around the lovely Dunnet Beach, with Dunnet's Head to my left, and then struck due east for the final 12 miles to my goal. The terrain was very exposed and bleak, the weather cloudy but mercifully dry. I won't forget those final miles for a long time, they seemed to take forever. Imagine, on a long descent where you would normally reckon to freewheel at 25mph, finding that you have to use lots of energy to go 6mph in your lowest gear! I even shouted at the wind in my frustration a couple of times! So it was with great relief that I finally coasted due north down into John O'Groats at about 4.15. I had felt a bit emotional earlier in the day, as I anticipated the completion of the journey, but now I just felt relieved to be done with that wind! I phoned Elisabeth and my parents, got a friendly passer by to take the obligatory photograph, had my 'record sheet' stamped at the hotel, and had a baked potato while I waited for my ferry to Orkney (to spend a night there before returning to Oxford). Today's average of 8 mph says everything about that wind. Just 51 miles, but they took me some 6hrs and 21 mins. Total mileage for the whole ride: 1021.34 Total time: 102.13 Average speed: 10 mph Total ascent: 60,516 ft (18,620 metres) For full statistics of today's trip and the whole journey, click here. So, when I look back on this journey, my main feeling is that I have been very fortunate. Consider: - Only one puncture, and no mechanical problems. - SE/S/SW winds the whole way, giving me favourable conditions the whole trip apart from the final day. - Only about 15 hours of serious rain in 102 hours of riding.