*2 September 2025* Raining when we woke but it cleared before we decamped and headed south along the west coast of Andøya. It's a designated scenic route for a reason, but the road is often in terrible condition. The landscape keeps changing. After a diet of high mountains close to the coast, there is suddenly a massive flat wilderness. ![[21-GNT - 1.jpeg]] We stopped at Bukkekjerke, a dramatic coastal rock formation created by erosion, where jagged cliffs meet the open sea. ![[21-GNT - 5.jpeg]] ![[21-GNT - 4.jpeg]] Its name comes from the Sámi words bohki (crevice) and giergie (stone). The site was once a Sámi sacrificial place, with natural features resembling an altar and pulpit, used in pre-Christian rituals. For the past 50–60 years, Bukkekjerka has hosted annual open-air church services, and today the architect-designed rest area includes consecrated ground for weddings, religious ceremonies, and community gatherings. It also includes a remarkable public toilet. ![[21-GNT - 2.jpeg]] Inside, you can choose whether to have the window to the sea opaque or with a shrouded sea view. Ester found her own place to "poo with a view". ![[21-GNT - 3.jpeg]] Leaving Andøya, the road snakes round fjords again. ![[21-GNT - Map.jpeg]] The mountains are relentless in their ubiquity. ![[21-GNT - 6.jpeg]] Near Sortland where we stop to recharge (and, as more-in-hope-than-belief a Burger King!), we spot the Hurtigruten boat departing down the fjord. ![[21-GNT - 7.jpeg]] The weather worsens but offers up some special light and cloud effects. ![[21-GNT - 8.jpeg]] ![[21-GNT - 9.jpeg]]![[21-GNT - 10.jpeg]] As the ferry from Melbu approaches the first island of Lofoten (Austvågøya), the vista reminds us of the coastline rainforests of New Zealand, with more vegetation growing higher up. ![[21-GNT - 11.jpeg]] The rain has set in properly for the drive around the island to our camping place where we hurriedly establish ourselves, encircled by mountains, and wait for the evening clearing. ![[21-GNT - 12.jpeg]]![[21-GNT - 14.jpeg]] When we wake in the morning it will be exactly three weeks since we left home. << [[The GNT, Day 20 - Gryllefjord to Stave]] | [[The GNT, Day 22 - Gimsøy & Vestvågøy]] >>