*4 September 2025* We have again changed our plan a little. We had thought of exploring Lofoten for a few days from our base camp at Rystad, and then starting the big southward move, perhaps going down Helgalandskysten - a beautiful but relatively slow route satrting at Bodø. But with the weather having been mainly cloudy since we got to Lofoten - and with the prospect of some sun over the coming days, we have decided to stay longer here and make the most of it, before travelling south faster. This afternoon we moved to Uttakleiv beach (left end of the map below) for a night of camping in the wild. It has rained for a while, so no photos. Hopefully there will be some tomorrow if the weather is better, as forecast. Before moving camp, we visited three well-known villages on Austvågøya. ![[23-GNT - Map.jpeg]] The first was Henningsvær, which grew as a fishing hub during the Lofoten cod fisheries, which date back centuries. Its natural harbour provided shelter for fishing fleets, and by the 19th century it had become one of the most important fishing villages in Lofoten. ![[23-GNT - 1.jpeg]]![[23-GNT - 2.jpeg]]![[23-GNT - 5.jpeg]]![[23-GNT - 8.jpeg]] It is known for its vibrant arts scene, and for its iconic football pitch perched on rocky islets. Unfortunately I wasn't invited to referee a match. ![[23-GNT - 7.jpeg]]![[23-GNT - 3.jpeg]]![[23-GNT - 4.jpeg]]![[23-GNT - 6.jpeg]] The second village was Kabelvåg. Originally known as Vågar, it was established around 1100 and became the first urban settlement in northern Norway. For centuries, it thrived as a bustling hub for trade, fishing, and culture. We loved its colourful buildings. ![[23-GNT - 9.jpeg]]![[23-GNT - 10.jpeg]] Finally Svolvær, the administrative and cultural heart of Lofoten, and its largest town. Dating back to the 9th century, it was mentioned in Norse sagas as a fishing settlement. By the late 19th century, Svolvær developed into a modern trading post and port, fueled by the thriving cod fisheries. While we charged our car, we enjoyed a walk over the little bridge to the small island of Svinøya, is the oldest part of Svolvær. ![[23-GNT - 11.jpeg]]![[23-GNT - 12.jpeg]]![[23-GNT - 13.jpeg]]![[23-GNT - 14.jpeg]] When we got to our overnight at Uttakleiv, the air was grey. ![[23-GNT - 16.jpeg]] But the evening brought respite. ![[23-GNT - 17.jpeg]] ![[23-GNT - 18.jpeg]] ![[23-GNT - 19.jpeg]] ![[23-GNT - 20.jpeg]] ![[23-GNT - 21.jpeg]] It was the calm before the storm... Late in the evening the forecast high winds arrived and blew up our peaceful night's sleep. But that's for tomorrow's blog. << [[The GNT, Day 22 - Gimsøy & Vestvågøy]] | [[The GNT, Day 24 - Uttakleiv to Flakstadøya]] >>