*20 August 2025* We had hoped to see old friend Katarina Pirak but heard early in the morning that she would not be back until evening. So we had to be on our way north. ![[08-GNT - Map.jpeg]] The drive to Gällivare passes a number of large dams with hydroelectric turbines. The electricity production from Swedish hydroelectric power stations covers around 45% of Swedish electricity consumption. This interesting Wikipedia article gives details: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_hydroelectric_power_stations_in_Sweden#cite_note-ene-1 But all this essential power, mainly for the south of the country, has come at huge cost to the north, and especially to the Sami people whose lands have been defaced. First, just north of Jokkmokk, is Akkats. ![[08-GNT - 4.jpeg]] ![[08-GNT - 5.jpeg]] This plant is well known due to the monumental artwork of artists Bengt Lindström, Lars Pirak and Lars J:son Nutti, which is known as the ‘Gates to the West’, or Uvssat davás in the local Sami language. Further on we left the road for a walk to an observation point at Sweden's largest (by far) hydroelectric plant, Harsprånget (the Hare Jump!). The scale of it is truly breathtaking. ![[08-GNT - 6.jpeg]] ![[08-GNT - 7.jpeg]] This plant has a maximum capacity of 977 MW. We pressed on north, passing another massive plant at Porjus (465 MW max) to Gällivare to call in on our very dear old friend Dr Maria Moberger, now 95. Her mind is sharp but she is no longer able to move around much. We had a happy three hours with her. ![[08-GNT - 9.jpeg]] Although we did not linger in Gällivare the region houses Sweden’s deep underground iron ore operations centered in Malmberget. Mining began in the 1740s and intensified with the arrival of the Malmbanan railway in 1888, linking the mine to ports and spurring industrial growth. The town has endured relocations and untenable terrain due to large sink-holes. Interestingly, today was the second day of the historic move of nearby Kiruna's old church a distance of five kms - part of the relocation of large parts of Kiruna to allow further iron ore mining. Back to our trip: Leaving Maria at 16:00 we stocked up with supplies, carried on north, charging our car at Puoltikasvaara (Tesla, the best in our experience) to give us enough juice for the leg to Karesuando. ![[08-GNT - 10.jpeg]]![[08-GNT - 11.jpeg]] The drive from Vittangi to Karesuando is just over 100 kms (c. 65 miles). It's real wilderness country, mostly forest and lakes, with the trees getting less tall as you go north. Only a couple of small settlements (but important ones for the local Sami communities and reindeer herders). ![[08-GNT - 8.jpeg]] We played a new game called "Spot the vehicle" and for that whole distance passed only - 12 cars - 2 trucks - 1 long distance cyclist - 1 motorbike - 1 motorhome - 1 car with caravan We arrived in the tiny border village of Karesuando with the sun setting. Just before the invitation to turn left to Finland(!), we found our little campsite (Sweden's most northerly) and were welcomed by Ulf who grew up in the site's homestead. ![[08-GNT - 12.jpeg]] ![[08-GNT - 13.jpeg]] Karesuando features as the last two pages of our Rough Guide! The end of Sweden! The North Cape is barely 500 kms away, and we are as far north as the northern tip of Alaska. Just a few centimeters beneath the surface, the ground is in the grip of permafrost all year round. We were glad of our tiny electric heater, with overnight temperatures forecast to drop to 2 degrees! ![[08-GNT - 1.jpeg]] Such a thrill to have got here. << [[The GNT, Day 7 - Jokkmokk]] | [[The GNT, Day 9 - Karesuando to Kautokeino]] >>